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Goat Rock Ukulele
PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 2:22 pm 
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Don't Use LMI's Clear Aqua Pore Filler On Raw Koa. That is usdnless you want an instrument that looks like it was made from pressure treated wood. I made that mistake and It took me hours to sand a ukulele out enough to not be horrible. I applied the filler and my beautiful red/brown koa turned a sickening pea green.

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These users thanked the author Goat Rock Ukulele for the post: Ben-Had (Wed Jun 24, 2015 4:20 pm)
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Ben-Had
PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 4:19 pm 
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WOW. I have switched to it recently and never used it on Koa but I have two students in my shop building ukes out of Koa and we were just getting ready to pore fill. Will have to test it on a piece of scrap. Thanks.

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Trevor Gore
PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 6:32 pm 
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If it's doing that on raw Koa, it will likely do it on raw Aus. blackwood, too. Best to test first.

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Goat Rock Ukulele
PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 2:13 am 
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The maker of the product through LMI has told me to try french polishing prior and between coats of pore fill. That might work but takes much of the advantage out of using it instead of epoxy.

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Wayne Brown
PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 8:27 am 
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Just finished a ukulele with b&s of koa using the Aqua Coat pore filler and experienced no problems using it on the bare wood. It shouldn't make any difference, but I purchased mine from Woodcraft Supply locally. I will keep this in mind for the next time and do a test on scrap just to be safe!
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Mike Collins
PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 8:44 am 
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I've been using water-base finishes for 16 years.
Always seal the bare wood with a simple coat of Shellac.

Then finish.
The shellac will seal & give a great patina to your woods.

NEVER put anything water based on bare wood.
It raises the grain & can make dry woods go crazy.
Mike

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Goat Rock Ukulele
PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 11:03 am 
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Wayne Brown wrote:
Just finished a ukulele with b&s of koa using the Aqua Coat pore filler and experienced no problems using it on the bare wood. It shouldn't make any difference, but I purchased mine from Woodcraft Supply locally. I will keep this in mind for the next time and do a test on scrap just to be safe!


That is very weird. I tested it on other pieces of koa and got the same disgusting green color shift. I will always shellac first from now on although it didn't raise the grain on the raw wood. I ordered a similar product from Stu Mac because now I'm just dang curious.

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jfmckenna
PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 3:12 pm 
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Mike Collins wrote:
I've been using water-base finishes for 16 years.
Always seal the bare wood with a simple coat of Shellac.

Then finish.
The shellac will seal & give a great patina to your woods.

NEVER put anything water based on bare wood.
It raises the grain & can make dry woods go crazy.
Mike


I've used water based sanding sealers that raise the hell out of the grain but I thought that was the point? I don't use water base anymore but even today I still raise the grain with a damp cloth and sand the spikes out of it.
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